Two nights in Berat, Albania’s City of a Thousand Windows, gave us castle sunsets, meringue desserts, and a heatwave we won’t forget. From furgon rides to fast food stops, here’s how we explored this historic gem.
If you’re travelling through Albania, Berat, known as the City of a Thousand Windows, is one place you don’t want to miss. It’s compact enough to explore in a day, making it a great pit stop if you’re driving through. But if you have the time, staying overnight in this charming little city is absolutely worth it.
Transport
Vlorë to Berat
We left Vlorë with a taxi ride from Sea Front Villa to the bus station near the Old Quarter, which cost 700 LEK. We timed our arrival perfectly for the 10:45 AM bus, but classic Balkan travel twist! It didn’t depart until 11:30 AM. So we had an hour to kill.
The Furgon to Berat cost 500 LEK per person and left on time. The journey was uneventful, but we assumed it would drop us at the bus station near our hotel. Turns out, there’s another bus station farther away. If only we’d known, we would have gotten off at the junction where another passenger did! So, instead, we ended up walking 35 minutes under the scorching sun to reach Rus Villa, our hotel for the next two nights.
Accommodation
Rus Villa: Our Stay in Berat
Despite the sweaty arrival, the hotel was lovely. It had a peaceful courtyard and a modern interior. The water pressure was great, the bed was comfy (with two pillows each!), and the total cost was just €39.70, including breakfast.
We actually booked the room through Booking.com, but the payment wasn’t processed via the platform. We had to pay the hotel directly. This seemed to be a common practice throughout our stay in the Balkans. Fortunately, they accepted card payments, which was a huge relief since we were trying to avoid another cash withdrawal before leaving Albania.
That said, there was a small hiccup as the owner had forgotten to bring the card machine, so she asked us to settle the bill at the restaurant located about 2 km away.
Another thing was that the listing advertised a shared kitchen, but what we found was more of a storage zone! Boxes, water gallons, and even bicycles were piled up inside. It wasn’t exactly usable, but since we hadn’t planned to cook, it didn’t bother us too much.
The breakfast was standard, but we missed our first breakfast because of a miscommunication. The owner thought we wanted it at 9:30 AM, but we’d said 8:30 AM. But, no big deal, though. We had burek at the nearby bakery and sat in a coffee shop nearby for people-watching.
What We Explored in Berat
Although we head out early to explore, by 10:30 AM, the pharmacy’s temperature panel was already showing 40°C, and by lunch time, the heat was scorching. Hence, we didn’t wander off too often and only went to a few places.
Berat Castle
Known locally as Kalaja e Beratit, this ancient citadel dates back to the 4th century BC, making it one of Europe’s oldest standing fortifications. Open 24 hours a day, it’s always accessible, though an entry fee of 300 LEK applies between 9 AM and 6 PM. Outside those hours, though, visitors can explore the site for free.
We walked up to the castle on our first evening via a convenient path behind our hotel. Locals were friendly. Some greeted us, others even stopped to chat.
Historical Significance
- A stronghold through the Byzantine, Ottoman, and Albanian eras.
- Witness to centuries of religious coexistence, with both Christian churches and Ottoman mosques inside its walls.
- Once home to Turkish garrisons and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Architectural Charm
- Built atop a 214-meter hill, offering sweeping views of:
- The Osum River
- The old town of Berat
- The majestic Tomorri Mountain National Park
- Features:
- Thick stone walls and fortified courtyards
- A mix of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture
- Residential homes still occupied today
Gorica Quarter
We wandered through the peaceful streets of Gorica, the old Christian quarter across the Osum River from Mangalem and the castle. It was quiet, and a beautiful spot to stroll and soak in the history.
- History: After the devastating 1851 earthquake, the quarter was extensively rebuilt. Many homes still display dates from this 19th-century reconstruction period.
- Architecture & Layout: The quarter’s design reflects its social history. The upper slopes feature small, densely packed middle-class homes, while the riverbank is lined with larger, 18th-century estates featuring traditional chardak balconies, once home to the elite.
- Landmark: The basilica-style Church of Saint Spyridon anchors the quarter, its prominent form interrupting the rows of surrounding houses.
Food & Drinks
Fast Food
On our way to the hotel, desperate to escape the heat, we ducked into a small fast-food spot for a quick bite. It wasn’t fancy, but it was reliable and exactly what we needed. They served kebabs, pizza, hot dogs, hamburgers, and other fast food staples. We returned the next day for a quick dinner, knowing it would hit the spot.
The place seemed to be called Fast Food Lorenxho, though the name didn’t match its location on Google Maps. So if you’re trying to find it, don’t rely too heavily on the pin. Maybe you can just follow your nose and the smell of grilled meat!
Mbrica Restaurant
After exploring the castle, we stopped at Mbrica, a restaurant with a stunning view of Tomori mountain. We had moussaka and a local dessert called Mont Blanc (or MonBlan in Berat).
A meringue-based treat originally from France, but now a local staple. If you love meringue, give it a try! The total cost was 14,500 LEK, and the service was excellent. Our waitress spoke fluent English and was super friendly.
Rus Restaurant (Halal)
We had lunch at Rus Restaurant, partly because our first choice was unexpectedly closed, likely due to Friday prayers. Despite the heat, we didn’t mind walking there since we got a 20% discount for being hotel guests. Plus, we could pay by card, which was a huge plus as we were running low on cash.
The total cost, including our accommodation and after the discount, was 5,600 LEK. The food was delicious, and we even tried dhallë, a popular Albanian buttermilk drink; refreshing and tangy!
Elbasan
Berat to Elbasan Transport
The bus stop was just 120 meters (2-minute walk) from our hotel, and the fare was a mere €0.30. At the terminal, a furgon driver tried to convince us to go via Durrës and transfer, but there was a direct bus to Elbasan at 12 noon. So don’t fall for that detour!
Of all the shiny, modern furgons at the station, we got the oldest one with no air conditioning and a bit of a relic. But honestly, we preferred it over making a transfer. The ride took just under 2 hours, including stops to pick up passengers along the road, and a 15-minute break at a roadside fruit stall near Rotondo e Çermës.
Quick stop in Elbasan
When we arrived in Elbasan, we grabbed lunch at a fast-food spot right across from the drop-off point. The terminal was still about 400 metres from here.
Even here, like in Berat, it was blazing hot, and we sat outside (the only option) trying to kill time before heading to the terminal. For two Kofta and three sodas, we paid 1,100 LEK. But we couldn’t linger more than an hour as the owner asked us to leave!
Thankfully, the terminal had a much better seating area with a fan. It wasn’t a typical terminal, but more like a restaurant. If only we’d known earlier, we would’ve eaten there instead. We ended up just ordering two bottles of water for 110 LEK.
Only downside? The toilet was reportedly awful, according to Mike. I didn’t get to test it myself because our FlixBus, which we booked online, left 20 minutes early. So, if you’re booking with FlixBus, be there early to avoid missing the bus!
From the vibrant streets of Tirana, to the sun-soaked shores of Vlorë, and the timeless charm of Berat, each place showed a unique side of Albania. And just like that, our Albanian adventure wrapped up in Elbasan. Next stop: North Macedonia!