Our Balkans summer adventure kicked off on June 20th and lasted until July 21st, 2025. We had a full month of exploring, eating, and soaking up the sun. We started by taking a bus from Riga to Vilnius on the 20th to catch a late-night flight to Tirana. With a few hours to spare, we revisited our favourite kebab shop in Vilnius. It was still as good as we remembered. We enjoyed a relaxed dinner, then grabbed a taxi to the airport.
Arrival in Tirana
The flight to Tirana, our first stop in the Balkans, took just over 2 hours and 30 minutes. Upon arrival, we hit immigration. Mike breezed through the e-gate thanks to his passport, while I had to queue up with the rest of the mortals. Oh well, at least he still had to wait for me on the other side 😄.
Anyway, if I’m not mistaken, along with UK passport holders, the US, Canadian, Korean, and Japanese were also allowed to use the e-gate. But, despite the long lines, the immigration process was efficient thanks to the many open counters. Soon enough, I was through too. We booked a Lux Taxi to our accommodation in Tirana for €15. A fair price for a late-night ride.
Accommodation
We arrived at our apartment just after 2:30 AM. Thankfully, it was a self-check-in setup, which made things super convenient. The instructions from the host were crystal clear, so finding the place was no trouble at all. The building exterior looked a bit rough around the edges, but once we stepped inside, we were pleasantly surprised. It was absolutely gorgeous!
The apartment was fully equipped with modern amenities: a smart TV, air conditioning, oven, fridge, coffee machine, washing machine—you name it. It even had thoughtful extras like cooking oils, spices, and laundry detergent. The cost for two nights was €72, and payment was made upon checkout. Talk about trust! The owner never met us in person, and all communication was done via WhatsApp. He simply asked us to leave the cash on the table!
Getting Connected
One of our first objectives was sorting out a local SIM card. Our first stop was a nearby office where we inquired about the Tourist Pack. The lady at the counter wasn’t that helpful, and she asked for our passports to register the SIMs, and of course, we hadn’t brought them along. Rookie move.
Luckily, we ended up in Blloku, Tirana’s stylish and buzzing neighbourhood, and found another Vodafone branch. The staff there spoke English fluently, and the woman assisting us was kind enough to accept our Latvian residence permits instead. Crisis averted.
Vodafone Albania’s Tourist Pack is designed for travellers and is valid for 21 days across the Balkans. You can choose between:
- 40GB of data + 1,000 national minutes for 2,600 LEK
- 100GB of data + unlimited national minutes for 2,900 LEK
Considering there wasn’t much difference in the price, we opted for the second option. 100GB gave us all the freedom to stream, upload, and navigate without worrying about running out. The registration was quick and easy, and within minutes, we had our SIMs.
Exploring Tirana
During our two-night stay in Tirana, we managed to explore a few key sights and enjoy our first Balkan food and beers. Here’s what we covered:
Skanderbeg Square
At the heart of Tirana lies Skanderbeg Square, a vast 40,000-square-meter plaza that pulses with the cultural and civic energy of Albania. Named after the national hero Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu, who led the resistance against the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century.
Bunk’Art 2
Along the way, we passed Bunk’Art 2, an underground museum built as a secret anti-nuclear bunker during Albania’s Communist era. We didn’t go inside, but history buffs should definitely add it to their list of places to visit.
Pyramid of Tirana
Originally built in 1988 as a museum to honour dictator Enver Hoxha, it’s since been everything from a conference centre for a NATO base, a nightclub, and now a youth tech hub filled with colourful boxes, workshops, and cafés.
Nearby, we spotted a bronze bust of Pope Francis. It commemorates his visit to Albania in 2014. It was actually his first visit to a European country outside of Italy!
As for the pyramid itself… well, we used to live next to the actual Pyramid of Giza, so we didn’t exactly feel the urge to climb this one. Let’s just say our pyramid standards are unusually high.
Still, if you’re curious about Albania’s modern transformation or want a panoramic view of Tirana, it’s worth a visit. Just don’t expect any ancient tombs, mummies, or camel rides!
Blloku Neighbourhood & Enver Hoxha’s Former Residence
Once a restricted zone reserved for Albania’s communist elite, Blloku has transformed into one of Tirana’s trendiest districts. It’s hard to imagine that this vibrant area filled with cafés, boutiques, and bars was once off-limits to ordinary citizens.
At the heart of Blloku lies the former residence of Enver Hoxha, Albania’s long-time dictator. The house still stands, quiet and unassuming, surrounded by the buzz of modern life. A stark contrast to its once heavily guarded status.
Food & Drinks
Tak-Fak Restaurant
Our first proper meal was at a cosy little restaurant just a short walk from our apartment called Tak-Fak. The vibe was relaxed, and our server, a friendly young guy who spoke fluent English, helped us navigate the menu with some great recommendations.
We tried a few local dishes, and the total bill for food and drinks came to just 2,300 LEK, which felt like a steal for the quality and portions.
Budget Beer Hunt
As for beer, the cheapest pint we found was just 150 LEK, at a no-name spot next to Selman Stërmasi Stadium, opposite EHW on Rruga S. Delvina. It wasn’t marked on the map, so we couldn’t tell you the name. But it was cold, cheap, and hit the spot.
Destination Bar & Pizza Paris
The second cheapest was at Destination Bar, conveniently located near our apartment. A pint there cost 170 LEK, and a glass was 120 LEK. They don’t serve food, but they’re totally chill about you bringing your own. So I went to Pizza Paris. Not the actual Paris, obviously, and grabbed two large pizzas for 2,200 LEK. Perfect combo.
Primo Coffee Lounge
The priciest pint we had was at Primo Coffee Lounge, a hotel bar with a lovely terrace and mist-blowing fans to keep things cool. A Stella Artois there costs 300 LEK, but the ambience made it worth the splurge.
With Tirana explored, we boarded a bus to Vlorë, ready for four relaxing nights soaking up the sun, sea, and a slower pace on the Albanian coast.