The second leg of our Balkan summer holiday took us to the city of Ohrid, situated on Lake Ohrid, often referred to as the “Jerusalem of the Balkans” because it once boasted 365 churches, one for each day of the year!
Journey from Elbasan to Lake Ohrid
Our bus journey from Elbasan to Lake Ohrid took just two hours. We had booked our seats online with Flix, although the ride turned out to be on a smaller van rather than the standard coach. Departing twenty minutes ahead of schedule, it was comfortable, just be sure to arrive early.
One of my biggest regrets on this trip happened during that drive. I spotted a lone wolf with grey fur like a husky, but much larger than any dog I’d seen. I froze in awe and missed my chance to capture it on camera. If you take the same route, keep your eyes on the roadside near the border, you might be luckier.
Accommodation at K&K Apartment City Centre
When we arrived, Darko, the owner of our apartment, greeted us at the station and offered tips on nearby restaurants. Our three-night stay at K&K Apartment City Centre cost €81. Discounted €1 from Darko!
The building’s elevator was a rare luxury for us, and the flat adjoined a wet market. From our balcony, we watched vendors set up in the old bazaar below.
The view of the mountains was breathtaking; we could only imagine their snowy peaks in winter. Inside, the apartment was spotless, and the bathroom was the largest we’d ever seen. Darko was an excellent host: he resolved a minor bed issue, fixed the Wi-Fi, and even left a couple of beers on the table for us.
The location couldn’t have been better, just a three-minute walk to the main Square, a ten-minute walk to the lake, surrounded by cafes, bakeries, bars, and supermarkets.
Exploring Lake Ohrid
Lake Ohrid lived up to its reputation as one of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes, with a maximum depth of nearly 300 meters. Its crystal-clear water was amazing as it often allowed us to see snakes hunting for fish beside the pier.
Our favourite vantage point was the Church of Saint Jovan at Kaneo. The uphill hike rewarded us with fishing boats drifting lazily below and even a Hermann’s tortoise sunbathing on the path.
We also admired the Ancient Theatre of Ohrid, the only Hellenistic amphitheatre in North Macedonia, built around 200 BC between two hills to shelter performances from the wind and ensure its renowned acoustics. From afar, we glimpsed Samuel’s Fortress, the 11th-century stronghold rebuilt by Tsar Samuel, still looming above the old town.
At the main square, the ancient Chinar tree, believed to be over a millennium old, often went unnoticed by the bustling crowd, yet those weary of the blazing sun gladly sought refuge beneath its sprawling branches.
Nearby the square, the Ali Pasha Mosque, one of Macedonia’s earliest, built with stone and fired-brick in the late 15th or early 16th century, stood proudly.
Dining in Ohrid
Altes Chinar Ohrid
On our first night, we dined in the old town’s Altes Chinar Ohrid. It wasn’t extraordinary, but the outdoor seating offered prime people-watching. Our bill for three beers and two hearty casseroles came to 1,300 MKD.
Viva Ksantika kaj Tanja
This homemade-food haven lived up to its reputation. We sat outside among flowers and a cool breeze, enjoying veal in sauce with mashed potatoes (650 MKD) and the famous Tavče Gravče (280 MKD), plus drinks for a total of 1,370 MKD. Service was warm, though they accepted cash only.
Vkusno Kebap Shop
After our fishing trip, we squeezed into a crowded kebab shop for a mixed grill (2,200 MKD). The meats and bread were fresh, and I also found the fizzy drink that was very similar to my favourite drink.
In Peru, it was the Inca Kola, and in Sabah, Malaysia, it was the Ice Cream Soda. Here it went by another name, but its colour remained the same brilliant golden yellow.
Coffee at Liquid
For caffeine, we went to Liquid, a cafe situated at the lakefront with stunning views and artisan iced coffee. We love to try the breakfast there, with a killer view, but with our apartment kitchen, we usually eat before heading out.
Fishing with Ljupco Lepi – Fishing Lake Ohrid
We booked a four-hour fishing trip for €90 per person with Ljupco Lepi. He picked us up and returned us to our doorstep, spoke excellent English, and shared stories from his years in Germany.
Although we stayed longer than the arranged time to try to catch fish and even used an underwater camera, we came up empty. Ljupco explained that the unusually strong currents might have driven them away, which was unusual.
Despite not landing a single fish, the lake’s sunset more than made up for it. We did, however, haul in plenty of mussels, and Ljupco happily devoured the largest ones himself! You can contact him at +389 77 935 701 to arrange for the trip!
As we left the peaceful charm of Lake Ohrid behind and headed toward Skopje, we didn’t expect the shift in tone. What came next was a day filled with statues and a taxi experience that left a bitter taste!