After our time in Tirana, we continued our journey south to the coastal city of Vlorë. The taxi from our apartment to the South and North Bus Terminal costs the same as the minibus fare to Vlorë, which was just 700 LEK.
Transport
Tirana to Vlorë
As soon as we stepped out of the taxi, which was right in the middle of parked buses, we were greeted by a chorus of drivers shouting out their destinations. It was a bit overwhelming, thinking that we had to search the place for the bus.
But we got lucky because the furgon (minibus) to Vlorë was parked nearby and was about to leave its parking spot. The writing on the windshield confirmed the destination, and we rushed to the minibus.
There were still plenty of empty seats, and upon surveying the interior, we noticed a printed fare notice taped next to the driver’s seat. So, when asked for the fare, we handed over the cash to the driver accordingly.
This was our first experience with Albania’s famous furgons, and it definitely won’t be our last. They’re the backbone of Balkan travel. In terms of the legroom, it was okay, though taller travellers might find longer rides a bit cramped. Air conditioning-wise, it was a little warm.
Traffic was slow leaving Tirana, especially around Durrës, but it picked up after that. The journey took just under three hours, and by lunchtime we were already wandering the old quarter of Vlorë, hunting for a good spot to eat before heading to our beachside hotel.
Accommodation
Sea Front Villa
From the old town, we took a taxi to Sea Front Villa for 500 LEK. The driver tried to charge more, but we negotiated. So, don’t be afraid to haggle! You could walk it, but with backpacks, it wasn’t practical. We did the walk later during our stay, and it took about 50 minutes.
Our room had a balcony facing the sea, though the view was blocked by trees. Inside, we had a double bed, air conditioning, a mini fridge, and a TV. Breakfast was included, and the total cost for four nights was €115. A great bargain considering the Old Beach (Plazhi i Vjetër) was just a 2-minute walk away, with plenty of eateries nearby.
There was a bit of confusion with Booking.com, which mistakenly marked us as a no-show and tried to charge a cancellation fee. Thankfully, it was sorted before checkout.
Breakfast was simple and repetitive, with only the dessert changing daily. The bathroom light was motion-activated, which was mildly annoying, and mosquito repellent was a must if you wanted to enjoy the balcony at night.
Exploring Vlorë
The Beaches
What better way to spend time on the coast than relaxing by the beach? We visited two during our stay:
- Narta Beach: Taxi charges to this place were 700 LEK, and returning to the hotel were more, 900 LEK. The sunbeds for two with an umbrella were 500 LEK, and there were plenty of restaurants nearby.
- Old Beach (Plazhi i Vjetër): Just steps away from our hotel, sunbeds here cost 200 LEK more than in Narta Beach, but when you factor in transport costs, it’s actually more economical. We ordered drinks from our sunbeds—100 LEK for water, 200 LEK for Coke. At the beach bar in a bar called Emiral beach, a large pint was 300 LEK, and a half pint was half the price.
Both beaches had shallow waters, great for kids. If you’re taller, you’ll need to wade out a bit further to swim properly.
Vlorë Old Town
The Qendra Historike e Vlorës is a charming old quarter with narrow alleys lined with restaurants, cafés, bars, ice cream shops, and souvenir stalls. It’s not a must-see, but if you’re nearby, let’s say, waiting for a bus, then it’s worth a quick stroll.
When we first arrived, our minibus dropped us near the old town, but with backpacks in tow, we couldn’t explore right away. We returned later and found it easy to navigate in under an hour.
Independence Monument
Located in Plaza of the Flag, the Independence Monument commemorates Albania’s 1912 declaration of independence from the Ottoman Empire.
Across from it is a military cemetery, marked by a tall pillar with a star. We didn’t climb up, but we imagine the view over Vlorë would be lovely from there.
Ancient Walls of Aulon
Behind the monument lies the ruins of the ancient city of Aulon, discovered in 1985. The 63.8-meter-long wall dates from the 4th to 14th century, and showcases several construction phases. Sadly, it didn’t seem well-maintained, with no barriers or signage beyond one info board. If not for that, we might’ve thought it was just a random wall. You could literally sit on it!
Food & Drinks
AGORA Restaurant (Old Town)
Upon arriving in Vlore, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at Agora. I opted for the seafood pasta and a glass of lemonade, and it turned out to be an excellent choice; both were winners!
The pasta was bursting with fresh flavour and came in a generous portion, while the lemonade was perfectly refreshing. Mike’s meal, on the other hand, was a lighter option and didn’t quite hit the mark for his hearty appetite. The total came to 2,840 LEK.
Zgara Tradita (Vlore Town)
A few days into our stay in Vlora, we found ourselves running low on cash, so we decided to head back to town (more choices of ATMs) to withdraw some money. While there were ATMs near our hotel, some of them charged higher withdrawal fees, especially the one closest to us.
On our way back, we stopped for lunch at Zgara Tradita. It was quiet, just us and one other diner, so service was quick. We ordered a kilo of grilled pork and lamb, with pickles, fries, bread, salad, and water. Total: 2,860 LEK. We sat outside, enjoying the breeze and the company of a skittish little cat.
Teo Narte (Narta Beach)
During our visit to Narta Beach, we stopped for lunch at Teo Narte. I went with the grilled bream, and we also shared a plate of calamari. Mike, still on a mission to outdo my seafood pasta from Agora Restaurant, ordered the same dish here; unfortunately for him, it didn’t quite measure up!
The meal was a bit more expensive than other places we’d tried, coming in at 3,800 LEK. While the food was decent, we both agreed we’d had better elsewhere.
Shtepia e Zjarrit (Plazhi i Vjetër – Old Beach)
A three-minute stroll from our hotel, we discovered a hidden gem for lunch at Shtepia e Zjarrit. I opted for the seafood linguine, while Mike chose the four-cheese pizza, and we shared a plate of mussels for two, all totalling 2,530 LEK.
The seafood pasta proved to be a worthy rival to the dish we had at Agora. However, the exceptional service, with its attentive and friendly staff, truly made this place stand out. This charming spot quickly became our favourite in all of Vlorë.
Bar cafè JUERS – Local Beer Spot (Plazhi i Vjetër – Old Beach)
Our go-to spot for drinks was a great local hangout just a five-minute walk from our hotel, right across from Restaurant Tradicional Varka. Tucked beneath an apartment block, this no-frills shop had a laid-back charm, drawing locals with its icy draft beer (only 150 LEK or €1.50 a pint). Simple, lively, and perfect for unwinding.
The area buzzed with even more options: nearby, Fast Food – Plazhi i Vjetër dished out kebabs, gyros, and sandwiches, while Furre Buke bakery tempted us with coffee, cakes, and flaky börek. Need snacks or a cold beer for the balcony? Market Plazhi i Vjetër had us covered. We’d grab supplies and soak up the view, just one of those little trip rituals that made the stay so memorable.
Final Thoughts
Spending four nights in Vlorë felt a bit lengthy, but it’s an excellent spot to unwind and recharge if relaxation is your aim. We visited during a heatwave that gripped the Balkans, yet the coastal temperatures in late June were manageable, topping out at 33°C.
However, moving inland to Berat brought a whole new level of heat that was far more intense.