We flew out of Manchester with Ryanair, the four of us bundled together for a little spring escape. It was our first proper look at Kraków, so even the short delay, Ryanair being Ryanair, couldn’t dampen the excitement.
The air was mild when we arrived, warm enough to feel welcoming after the grey skies back home. Still, it was spring, so the clouds followed us now and then. Perhaps we brought the weather with us.
Accommodation in Kraków
For the first three nights, Mike and I stayed at INX Design Hotel, a modern spot with beautiful interiors and a bed that made it far too easy to sleep in. Mum and Dad chose Aparthotel Old Town, right in the heart of the old town, about a twenty‑two‑minute walk from ours. It suited us perfectly. We love walking and enjoyed being in a slightly less touristy corner of the city, while still being close enough to meet up, wander together, and then drift back to our own places whenever we needed a breather.
When their trip came to an end, supposedly ours too, they headed back to Manchester. But we weren’t quite ready to leave. So we extended our stay by one more night and moved into the very place they had just left, Aparthotel Old Town.
Food & Drinks
In the Old Town, one of the many restaurants lined up there that we tried was No7 Restaurant. It was a great place for people watching.
One of our favourite meals in Krakow was at a Jewish restaurant, Restauracja Ptaszyl, only a six‑minute walk from INX. We sat outside, enjoying the soft spring air. Mike ordered Bigos (46 PLN), and I had the goose leg with gnocchi (113 PLN), genuinely the best goose I have ever had. Tender, rich, and with that perfect crisp on the skin. We shared a bowl of Żurek (29 PLN), the traditional sour rye soup, hearty and comforting in a way that makes you understand why it has been loved for generations.
Another place we often visited for quick bites was Bar mleczny Pod Filarkami, a Polish self‑service restaurant about a 6-minute walk from Restauracja Ptaszyl. It is a small local spot with limited seating. Since it is self‑service, you order at the counter, pay with cash at the cashier, then collect your food and cutlery when it is ready. When you finish, you simply leave everything on the counter before heading out again.
We also tried the Polakowski restaurant that was located only a two‑minute walk from Restauracja Ptaszyl. It follows the same self‑service style, although I felt the quality was not quite as good as Pod Filarkami. The interior, however, was prettier.
Places of Interest
Nearby the restaurants, there is a 16th‑century Jewish house of worship, one of the oldest synagogues in the city, a monument to the Jewish people killed during the Second World War, and the Old Synagogue, now a museum.
Most days led us back to Rynek Główny, Kraków’s Main Market Square. It is one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and you feel that history the moment you step into it. The square is full of life, with cafés spilling onto pavements, restaurants tucked under arches, and more drinking spots than you could ever hope to try in one trip. The two we frequent were BaniaLuka and Sioux.
Horse‑drawn carriages line the cobbles, white and ornate, almost Disney-like. Tourist‑heavy, yes, but charming all the same, especially when the horses clip‑clop past the Cloth Hall and St Mary’s Basilica.
The Cloth Hall sits right in the centre, a long Renaissance building filled with stalls selling amber jewellery, wooden crafts and little souvenirs. St Mary’s Basilica towers over the square with its mismatched spires, and if you listen closely, you will hear the trumpeter play the Hejnał every hour, stopping abruptly to honour the legend of the trumpeter who was shot mid‑melody centuries ago. If you are nearby when it plays, look up at the tiny window at the top, and you will see him.
But Kraków is not only beauty. About an hour and a half away, Auschwitz greets you with solemnity. The shift in atmosphere is immediate. Walking through the grounds, seeing the remnants of what happened there, stays with you. It is a place that makes you hold your breath.
After our final night at Aparthotel Old Town, we packed up again and headed to the train station. What began as a simple spring break turned into something more spontaneous. We kept going, crossing into Germany, then onwards to Aarhus in Denmark, before finally flying back to Manchester. A trip that was meant to end in Kraków became a small adventure of its own.