Pristina gave us late‑night energy, Peja offered a nature break, and Prizren promised history. This was the story of our three‑night stay in Prizren. A historic city of fortress views, traditional boza, a home‑cooked lamb stew, and a relaxed finale to our Kosovo trip.
Peja to Prizren
We booked a taxi from Peja to Prizren with a company called London Taxi. Our driver arrived promptly at 11.00 am and spoke excellent English; he was warm and chatty from the moment we climbed in, so the two‑hour drive, which included a little traffic, passed quickly.
He told us he was a certified dentist who had turned to driving because of a lack of job opportunities and said he kept only 35 per cent of the €60 fare, so we added a €10 tip.
He also shared personal stories from the Kosovo conflict, opinions about Josip Broz Tito and local context we would not have found in guidebooks, and finished with food and drink tips. Flia/Fli and boza went straight onto our must‑try list.
Accommodation
This time, we stayed three nights in a studio-style room booked through Airbnb for €94. We collected the key from a lockbox near the gate. The family lived on the first and second floors but were away for most of our stay, and we only saw them once on our last day.
Deniz, the son, who lives in Germany, handled the arrangements and welcomed us to use the well-stocked fridge and fully equipped kitchen. The unit was on the ground floor, but the bathroom was located in the hallway along with the washing machine. It has a small garden accessible via the room’s Patio Door. The room door, however, had no lock, which felt odd but was manageable.
Before leaving Prizren, we also enjoyed a home-cooked Kosovo-style lamb stew prepared by our Airbnb host’s mother and aunt. The meal used regional ingredients and cost €20. Deniz also allowed us a late check-out at close to 6 pm!
Activity
The Walk to Prizren Fortress
We walked up to Prizren Fortress for panoramic views of the town and the surrounding mountains. The climb was easy, and the view was well worth it; I even noticed a bullet casing embedded in one of the walls.
Although we almost cancelled the walk halfway through when we found a dog sleeping and blocking the top of the stairs. The dog looked quite old, and something was wrong with its eyes; it also had a yellow ear tag.
From what we found online, a yellow tag often indicates the animal has been neutered and vaccinated, but it does not necessarily mean the dog is friendly. In the end, we climbed a three‑foot wall to avoid passing directly by him and continued to the top.
Places of Interest
Shadërvan Square in the old town was perfect for people watching and casual dining. The area had many eateries and a relaxed atmosphere. In the middle of the square, the Shadervan square water fountain received many visitors, it must be because of the local legend that drinking from this fountain ensures a return visit to the city.
Old Stone Bridge – The original bridge over the Lumbardhi River was said to date back to the 16th century. However, the structure we see today was a reconstruction. After a catastrophic flood in 1979, which completely destroyed the bridge, it was rebuilt and reopened in 1982.
When we visited in the summer, the river ran shallow, revealing scattered stones where birds perched and chirped in harmony with the call to prayer from the nearby Sinan Pasha Mosque.
Built in 1615 by Sofi Sinan, the Sinan Pasha Mosque was a commanding Ottoman landmark in Prizren, Kosovo. The minaret stands over 40 metres, according to online sources.
Situated near the fortress, the Church of the Holy Saviour was declared a Monument of Culture of Exceptional Importance in 1990 but suffered severe damage during the 2004 unrest, along with 35 other Serbian Orthodox churches.
It was closed when we walked past this church on our way down from the Prizren fortress.
Also, if you’re preparing for a wedding, don’t miss Adem Jashari Street. It’s packed with bridal boutiques and jewellery stores like nowhere else!
Gazi Mehmed Pasha Hammam (Turkish Bath) – The 16th‑century Ottoman bathhouse now serves as an exhibition gallery and museum. This Turkish bath was easily mistaken as closed due to the construction work outside.
However, it was open for a visit! Best of all, it was free! Although there wasn’t much to see inside, 10 minutes was enough to explore this place.
Food and drinks
- Merak Cafe: Mike had a macchiato, and I tried boza for the first time, and I loved it. Boza is a traditional, non‑alcoholic (or very low‑alcohol) drink made from fermented cereals such as corn, wheat, or millet, and my favourite was the corn version. We also shared two portions of meat, spinach, and cabbage burek, and the total cost was only €4.50.
- Best Food Halal: This place, located around Shadërvan Square, made some good pizzas. The price wasn’t too bad as well, for a Margarita pizza and three sodas, it cost €9.
- The Hemingway Bar Lounge: This bar, located right in front of the water fountain, was very busy during our visit. As it was smack right in the centre, frequently visited by tourists, the price was noticeably higher compared to other places. Here, for two and a half pints costs €8. Still, it’s manageable, right?
- Qebaptore Shadrvan Korzo: Cevapi for €4.
- Hotel & Restaurant Bruti / Kinezi Bar: A pint cost €2.70, a half pint €1.80, and bottles of Skopje or Tuborg were €2.50 each.
- Local Grill near Bruti hotel: Grilled chicken (Half) for €7.
Final notes and departure
We took a €3 taxi to the terminal to catch our 6:30 p.m. bus to Podgorica, Montenegro. Our eight days in Kosovo had been varied and rewarding.
Each city offered a different side of the country: city life in Pristina, mountain scenery in Peja, and preserved history in Prizren. It was a fitting end to this leg of our Balkan journey.